The dinner in Massimo’s was without probably the highlight of our trip to the Parma region, however we did manage to fit in some more wonderful culinary experiences in an amazingly full three day tour.

We landed in Milan Airport on Monday morning and then it was straight on to the bus which was to be our home for the next days.

Our first stop was in Gaultiero Marchesi’s Alma, his international school of Italian Cuisine in Colorno.

As he was one of our founder members and is president for Italy this building also houses the Euro-Toques office.
Marchesi is a bit of a culinary god in Italy so this was no ordinary third level tech.
If you have ever wondered what happened to Napoleon’s Hapsburg wife, Marie Louise, when he was packed off to exile in St. Helena (which I, as a long time fan of his often have) wonder no more.
She was given this palace as a sop and, as they have only just uncovered, made out the gardens like Versailles as homage to her Aunt; Marie Antoinette.

As I said, not your usual tech!
They gave the full tour of this state of the art culinary university, bustling with an international mix of young chefs all pristine in their whites

And then fed us an elegant and delicious lunch. (With wine)
This was to be our first taste of the wonders of Italian hospitality.

Then back on the bus to the hills over Parma.
On the way we passed the 15th Century Castle of Torre Chiara.

Interesting to see how the Italians seem to make their Castles both impregnible and comfortable.
(Impossible walls to scale but a wonderful veranda to loll about on)

Next stop was to be a visit to a Parma Ham producer.

The Italians wax quite lyrical about the sweetness of their Parma Ham.
As we were to discover it does have a lovely delicate sweetness and flavour. They put this down to the sweet dry air in the hills over Parma where the hams are dried. We were assured that the only preservative used was salt and air.

The curing store which we were visiting was a vast cavernous building with three storeys full of about 6000 hams hanging in various stages of ripeness.

Its very size is best appreciated by the fact that all 28 of us were able to squash into the lift!

We were given the tour by a member of the Parma Ham Consortium. Their job was to maintain standards and each ham has to go through rigorous tests before it is stamped with the prestigious Five Star Crown that declares it to be a veritable Prosciutto di Parma.

As these retail for about €150 each one wonders why the Irish pig industry has never thought of doing something similar.

After these various trips we finally got to check into our hotel in Parma and were given a couple of hours to stroll through this most inviting city before dinner.
The shops were just closing as we made this trip but one thing is clearly evident.
Boy do these people have style, and they seem to have dodged that Irish High Street blight of uniformitywhich has happened as the multi nationals colonise our streets.
The city was full of small specialised boutiques, I noticed several selling only men’s underwear ! The sense of style was reflected in their shop windows.
When is the last time you have stood outside a wool shop admiring their wares?

Dinner that night was in “Il Cortile “ Restaurant, munificently hosted by the Consortiums for Parma Ham and Parmesan Cheese.
I thought we had pulled the short straw when I realised that Sile and I were going to sit next to Marchesi himself at this but he turned out to be fully capable of being charming and Sile and he were able to talk away in French. The proprietress of the restaurant was in a state of abject terror at the prospect of him dining in “Il Cortile” and we got the very best of service, even getting seconds of the wonderfully sweet Parma ham.
(This should always be eaten with the fingers said Marchesi, so we did, and always will when ever we are lucky enough to get our hands on some!)
We were also introduced that night to the delights of Parmigiano Reggiano, certainly Gods own cheese, especially when accompanied by drops of aged Balsamic Vinegar.

These people certainly know how to eat !