Ratatouille was enormously fashionable in the sixties and seventies and, like all things which were enormously fashionable it became very unfashionable once its vogue had passed.
The reasons for its being a la mode at this period were I think similar and concurrent with the (Elizabeth David inspired) yearning for all things Mediterranean. It was our northern hankering after the warmth and sunshine of Provence after the long dark days of WW2 and its straitened aftermath.

Like all things which are very fashionable for a long time Ratatouille is much more than just a fashionable, vegetable taste of the warm south.

This time of the year I find myself looking at the imported courgettes and aubergines with a less jaundiced eye. The long winter showing signs of departure I am prepared to cheat to rush in the summer.

Last night I cooked a Ratatouille with great care and it was delicious.

The secret was I think in the liberal and late seasoning and the late addition of the courgette and pepper which gave some liveliness and texture to the dish.
The flavour was also improved by the fiddly, but worthwhile blackening and peeling of the peppers. This lent it a subtle smoky flavour.

Sunday Ratatouille

Olive Oil
2 medium Onions
1 Medium Aubergine
1 Medium Courgette
2 Red Peppers
500g Tin Chopped Tomatoes or Tomato Passata
1 teaspoon Sugar
1 Teaspoon red Wine Vinegar
Salt
Black Pepper
1 teaspoon Chopped Thyme
1 teaspoon Chopped Basil
2 Cloves Garlic, chopped fine.

Peel the Onion and chop it into small dice.
Chop the Aubergine into similar pieces.
Put about two tablespoons of olive oil into a pan.
Cook the Onion and Aubergine gently in the oil until soft.
As Aubergine absorbs a lot of oil you may need to add some more to stop it drying.

Blacken the peppers by holding them over a gas flame until black
Or
Halve them and grill until black.
Rub off and discard the blackened skins and seeds and dice the flesh.
Dice the flesh of the Courgette.

Add these to the Aubergine and onion and saute together for a few minutes only.

Add in the tomatoes, bring back to a simmer then add the sugar vinegar, salt pepper herbs and garlic and then simmer for just a few minutes.
The diced courgette should have a crunch.

Best served warm or at room temperature.