Writing last week about Grape Pud from Snaffles and the salamander we used to caramelise the top reminded me of that other signature dish of Snaffles ; the Snaffles Mousse.

Strangely a brief surf of the internet reveals that Grape Pud has faded from memory along with Snaffles ( which, for younger foodies I should explain was probably Irelands first “Gourmet” restaurant, sited in , a then respectable, Leeson Street in Dublin, and in which I had the privilage to work,for several years, in the sixties )
On the other hand Google reveals that there are several references to the eponymous mousse today and it seems to still be enjoying a certain success.
It was my job in Snaffles to make the mousse each morning.
It was incredibly easy to make and owed far more to convenience than to gourmet tradition, as you will see when I quote the recipe.
It was also my job to say to the many Americans who came to the kitchen door that, as it was a secret recipe we wern’t permitted to give it out.
The truth of the matter of course was that its ingredients were an embarrassment to us.

Here are the descriptions given of the guessed at ingredients of our mousse as quoted in various Food Guides of the time;

“A creamy froth of smoked fish”

“Like a savoury Guinness, smooth creamy and garlicy.”

(The last one in fact was the closest to what it tasted like)

The truth of the mousse was that it was a liquidized mixture of Philly Cheese and a can of Campbells consomme, flavoured with a pinch of curry powder and a crushed clove of garlic.

The truth is also that it tasted delicious and the flavours were strangely mixed resulting in an elusive flavour, difficult to pin down.

As Campbells Consomme no longer has the requisite gelatine to set this mousse I am going to give you the recipe as devised by Simon Hopkinson in the year 2000 in the English Independent.
He also substitutes curry paste for the powder which must be an improvement.

Snaffles Mousse

1 leaf of gelatine
1 can of Campbell’s condensed consomme
300g cream cheese
2 heaped tsp curry paste
1 clove garlic, crushed to a paste with a little salt

Immerse the gelatine leaf in cold water for several minutes, to soften. Put 2 tablespoons of the consomme into a small pan and gently heat. Once it is hot but not boiling, lift the gelatine leaf from its water, squeeze out any excess and add to the hot consomme. Swirl together to melt the leaf and set aside to cool to lukewarm. Pour the remaining consomme into a liquidiser (a food processor will not give as smooth a finish) and add the cheese, curry paste, garlic, and, finally, the small pan of consomme and gelatine. Whiz until very smooth indeed.
Pour this into individual ramekins or small glasses (it should make between six and eight) and put it into the fridge to set for at least 6 hours

Simon also says to serve with hot buttered toast, which we never did in Snaffles but sounds like a nice addition.