Ever since reading (and trying out) Sydney Smith’s rhyming recipe for Salad Dressing I have had a weakness for these recipes, even to the extent of trying out one myself for the poached egg*.
I am enjoying Mark Kurlansky’s ; The Last Fish Tale, given to me by daughter Eileen for the Christmas. In it he gives a recipe for Chowder (here spelled Chouder) taken from the Boston Evening Post in 1751 which is in rhyme.
First lay some Onions to keep the Pork from burning,
Because in Chouder there can be no turning;
Then lay some Pork in Slices very thin,
Thus you in Chouder always must begin.
next lay some Fish in crossways very nice
Then season well with Pepper, Salt and Spice;
Parsley, Sweet Marjoram, Savory and Thyme
then Biscuit next which must be soaked some time.
Thus your foundation laid, you must be able
To raise a Chouder, high as Tower of Babel:
For by repeating o’er the Same again,
You may make Chouder for a thousand Men.
Last Bottle of Claret, with Water eno’ to smother ’em
You’ll have a mess which some call Omnium gather ’em.
I haven’t tried it yet, but can but admire the use of both capital letters and herbs.
*For your forgiveness everyone I beg
For giving out this recipe one more time
Again I tell you how to poach an egg
But this time do the blasted thing in rhyme.
First get some water, fresh from tap or well
And pour into a poaching pan or pot
Put this upon the heat and wait a spell
Till seething water tells you that it’s hot.
Into this water add a spoon or two
Of the best vinegar made from wine or malt
But one thing you must never ever do
Upon your life don’t dream of adding salt
Now from a hen who lives on primrose path
Break in a cup an egg so fresh its hot
Insinuate this in the bubble bath
(Which is the water boiling in the pot)
But only now the therms should be reduced
The water should just shudder on low heat
From that time when the egg was introduced
Until opaque and lifted out to eat
How long that this should be is up to you
It hangs on how you like your egg to be
Soft yolkéd after one minute or two
Or hard boiled should you give it four or three
Now lift it forth by use of slotted spoon
And let it stand over the pot to drain
Don’t dream to put it on the toast too soon
Or this will taste like cardboard after rain
Now put it on the slice of wholemeal toast
Which you have buttered should you like the taste
(It all depends on what you like the most
The taste of butter or a slender waist)
And then, at last the the breaking of your fast
When finally your hunger pangs you quell
But for a taste forever unsurpassed
Anoint with pepper and some Fleur de Sel
Comments
Peter Denman
on December 28, 2008Hi Martin,
I’m sure we’ve shared this Douglas Dunn recipe poem with you before now, but it seems apropos for your latest blog. Both dish and poem are favourites of Siobhan and myself. ‘Appy new year!
RATATOUILLE
I.
Consider please this dish of ratatouille.
Neither will it invade Afghanistan
Or boycott the Olympic Games in a huff.
It likes the paintings of Raoul Dufy.
It feeds the playboy and the working-man.
It has no enemies, no, no even
Salade Niçoise or phoney recipes,
Not Leonard Brezhnev, no, not Ronald Reagan.
It is the fruits of the earth, this ratatouille,
And it has many friends, including me.
Come, lovers of ratatouille, and unite.
II.
It is a sort of dream, which coincides
With the pacific relaxations called
Preferred Reality. Men who forget
Lovingly chopped-up cloves of ail, who scorn
The job of slicing two good peppers thinly,
Then two large onions and six aubergines –
Those long, impassioned and imperial purples –
Which, with six courgettes, you sift with salt
And cover with a plate for one round hour;
Or men who do care to know about
The eight ripe pommes d’amour their wives have need of,
Preparing ratatouille, who give no thought to
The cup of olive oil that’s heated in
Their heaviest pan, or onions, fried with garlic
For five observant minutes, before they add
Aubergines, courgettes, peppers, tomatoes;
Or men who give no thought to what their wives
Are thinking as they stand besides their stoves
When seasoning is sprinkled on, before
A bouquet garni is dropped in – these men
Invade Afghanistan, boycott the Games,
Call off their fixtures and prepare for war.
III.
Cook for one hour, and then serve hot or cold
Eat it, for preference, under the sun,
But, if you are Northern, you may eat
Your ratatouille imagining Provence.
Believe me, it goes well with everything,
As love does, as peace does, as summers do
Or any other season, as a lifetime does.
Acquire, then, for yourselves, ingredients;
Prepare this stew of love, and ask for more.
Quick, before it is too late. Bon appetit!
Douglas Dunn, St Kilda’s Parliament (1981)
Martin
on December 29, 2008Interesting, both the poem and the recipe, very heavy on the aubergine and courgette while light on everything else. Must try it.
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