On Saturday morning Colm and I went to Beziers market to shop.

The market there is an enclosed one, nothing remarkable in that for one raised in Cork city, and full of remarkable produce.
Fruit stalls with fine displays of Apricots, White and Yellow Peaches and Nectarines as well as Black and White currants, mounds of Raspberries and tons of black cherries which are right on season now and delicious.
I spotted a large Cote de Boeuf that thumping T bone steak weighing in at about two kilos with a price tag of €14 on it and waited while the butcher filled the orders of the other people in the queue. As I waited I noticed that there seemed to be quite a lot of pictures of horses in the stall, I then suddenly realised that my Cote de Boeuf was in fact a Cote de Cheval.
At that moment M Le Bucher asked me if I was ready to order.
I stuttered, “ C’est Cheval?”
“Mais Bien Sur Monsieur., Je suis Chevaline” said the butcher with a smile and I slunk away.
I’m not quite brave enough for horse yet.

I then spotted a little jam maker where I bought some Confiture de Gingembre for Sile (her favourite) and bought a favourite of mine, some Banon de Chevre, that almost liquid Goat Cheese from the mountains of North Provence, which comes wrapped in Chestnut Leaves.
Then I spotted the real Mc Coy, a beef butcher and thought there I might get some Vrai Cote de Boeuf. The butcher here, as all the stall holders was in no hurry to finish with each customers and all were addressed as friends.
I cast my eye over the stall while waiting and there spotted one of my favourite cuts of beef which made me change my mind instantly and decide to pick Jarret instead of Cote de Boeuf.
These delicious cushions of beef , interleaved with unctuous seams of gelatine are the shin, one of the cheapest of all cuts of beef but now getting more and more difficult to get in Ireland due to our fast food nature which cannot wait the hours it takes to cook these beauties and condemns them to the mincer and the fast food grill as hamburgers. These little cushions weigh in at about a kilo each and mine cost €7.00, or about €3.50 a pound.
The butcher asked my how I intended to cook the shin.
Surprised I explained I wanted to make a Gardiane de Toro.
( a traditional stew from the Camargue, [the Gardianes being the men who herd the bulls there,] made with slow cooked beef and Olives)
He approved, would I chop them or slice them he asked.
I will slice them, not to small I said , and sear them on the pan first.
He nodded.
He permitted me to buy.
While at the market I also bought some mushrooms, some tiny sweet and fleshy Niceoise olives and a piece of Lard, or streaky bacon from the Charcuiterie.
Colm, who is far more of a purist than I stopped me buying herbs, saying that we could get free wild Oregano and Thyme in the Peuch, the little hill across from the house.

The following day we made the Gardiane.
It was so good we ate it for three days in a row, finishing it regretfully for today’s lunch.
I have two visitors and a wife arriving on Thursday.
I fully intend to make another for them.

Gardiane de Toro
(for 4 to 6)

1.25 kg (2 ½ lbs) Shin of Beef in the piece
Olive Oil for frying
250g (8oz.) Bacon in the piece
20 Black Olives (stoned if you like)
1 Head Garlic
8 Shallots
250g (8oz.) Mushrooms
2 Glasses red wine
125ml (¼ pint) stock (or water)
1 tsp. Chopped Fresh Thyme
1 tsp chopped Fresh Marjoram or Oregano
1 strip Orange Peel
Generous grinding of Black Pepper.

To cook the dish:
Chop the bacon into chunks and fry in a pan until brown.
Leave the fat on the pan and tip the bacon into an ovenproof casserole.
Peel the shallots and the garlic and leave whole.
Fry these in the remaining fat in the pan until brown and add to the casserole.
Halve the mushrooms and fry in the same fat until brown (you may need some extra olive oil for these)
Add these to the casserole.

Now cut the shin in slices and brown on both sides in the pan in oil.
Season with salt and black pepper and add to the casserole.
Throw the wine into the pan and dissolve any sticky bits on the base.
Add to casserole along with the stock and the orange peel and the olives.

Cook this at Gas 2, 140 C, 280 F for about three hours.
Check after a half hour, it should be simmering gently but not vigorously.
Adjust your heat accordingly.

Serve with rice or noodles or with boiled or mashed potatoes.
(Mashed potatoes, with a large quantity of butter in, is the best but the most sinful )