The word Apotheosis means elevation to divine status.

This is a version of the potato cake which I have been cooking with variations for years, so simple is it that I have never even thought of giving out a recipe for it, but , as we ate a pan full on the terrace yesterday, and enjoyed every bit, I was inspired to picture them in their golden simplicity and share them with you.

There are a couple of ground rules for making these.

You need a fairly decent spud, dry, suitable for mash or puree- ones suitable for chips are also good.

You need a stout sieve or mouli legumes, any lumps found in a potato cake are unforgivable. (In fact any lumps found in ANY mashed potato are unforgivable- having been served lumpy mash twice in a hotel in Wexford County {name on application only} no amount of wild horses would drag me back there again.)

You need a good non-stick pan, the one in the shot is a Favorit from Ikea, about €40 four years ago, still perfect -I have just bought a second one.

You need to have a reasonably generous hand with the butter and cheese, these lads are not Cuisine Minceur

The strange thing about these beauties is that, rather like stalking game , they are never approached directly but down wind and with every appearance of doing something completely different.
In other words it is the business of the chef to make too much delicious creamy mashed potato for the dinner (not always as easy as it seems) and in this way to have enough left over mash for the potato cakes- this is a learned skill but with trial and effort it is master-able, and the rewards are great.
I have never in my forty odd years of making potato cakes steamed spuds directly for them.
And this leads to requirement number five.
The best potato cakes are always started in the steamer rather than the pan.
Softness is everything to achieve the velvet smoothness of our apotheosis and I have found that only by steaming can this be guaranteed.

Once these are soft through, to the point of implosion, then they can be lifted off the simmering water.
In a large pot, usually the same one, then melt a chunk of butter- it’s up to you- a dollop of milk (cream at Christmas time) and a very generous scattering of sea salt and an even more generous coarse grating of black pepper.
Put this pot back on the heat until the milk and butter are bubbling (and likely seperated – ignore this).
Take this off the heat and put your mouli or sieve over the pot and push through the potoato into the pot.

Next comes the tough bit.
Using elbow power and a wooden spoon or a hand held whisk, now beat up the potato with the milk and butter until it becomes a light white and pale cloud.
This you then eat immediately with what ever meats you would think would suit it.

This is not of course the apotheosis, but it is a damned nice step on the way.
This is where,, like the clever deer stalker, you must give the impression of having no interest whatsoever in your ultimate prey but set on some innocent other pursuit.
You must now conceal with clever sleight of hand, sufficient mash potatoes for tomorrows celestial lunch, putting the whole lot out on the table can often prove fatal.

Now to day two (or three or four, they are good lasters these lads)

Rouse out the hidden mash from the fridge, let us suppose you managed to put away about 300g – a half pound or more.

Put this into a bowl and drop into it two free range eggs.
Beat these together well.

Now is the time for flavourings (not essential)
You can add some chopped chives or finely chopped scallions, some crisp lardons of bacon,-in fact just about anything you fancy.
Yesterday I just added some finely chopped (about two tablespoons full) of an aged Comté

Now get out your pan and heat well on the top of the stove.
Put on a tablespoon of olive oil and then drop in tablespoons of the potato mixture. (If you have more than a pan full light the oven, set at warm and keep the first batch warm while cooking the second)

Leave them untouched for about three minutes on one side until brown then flip over and repeat the process on the other.

They should look like this:

Now serve with….. well the possibilities are endless.
Excellent on their own, with some crisp rashers and/or a poached egg.
They are delicious with some smoked salmon-should become a national dish- and superb,(and a match for) a little caviar(or Danish lumpfish Roe)- should some be handy.

Their crisp softness is further enhanced by a light grating of white truffles but that might be a step too far for your store cupboard.