Part three of the saga of the summer of 2006

After our week of luxury in Goudargues it was back to the tent for our first attempt at camping in Spain.

The first night was a disaster, we stayed in a noisy, over-priced and cramped campsite in Castello d’Empuries near Gerona (you know who you are!).
Thus losing confidence in Spanish campsites we were delighted with our second night which was in a site called El Berro in the Espuna mountains.

There the considerate management had erected
awnings over the sites for extra shade. There was also
an excellent pool and the height made it much cooler
than the lowlands. The temperatures were in the forties
still, as there was a heatwave all over Europe.

I became so hot and sweaty when I was setting up the tent
that I hung my t-shirt up to dry.
As it dried I was able to see from the “tide marks” that I had
lost considerable amounts of salt as well!
We stayed two nights in El Berro.

As we headed down towards Granada, our next goal, we decided to stop in a cafe for breakfast. Looking for Coffee and Croissants we hopefully asked for them. “No”, said the proprietor firmly, “Tostados”.
He then promptly served with that delicious, and I had previously thought Catalan speciality El Pa y Al about which I had written but not eaten in Spain.
It was far better than Croissants!

Our next goal was to the Sierra Nevada Mountains over Granada.
There we had booked Camping Los Avellanos de Sierra Nevada on a strong recommendation from Alan Rogers’ most unreliable guide. (He had after all recommended La Laguna near Gerona -oops, now I’ve named them!)
This time however he came up trumps.
This camp site was a winner.

It was another Olive Farm, this time the terraces had been
converted into beautifully private pitches.

All with a marvellous view of the Sierra Nevada.

But the best thing about the place was the young owner; Pilar.
As soon as we had the tent pitched she escorted us to a shady spot
and fed us tapas of chilled sweet tomatoes and icy beer.
The most refreshing thing I have ever eaten!

A terrific camp site and beautifully run.

The following day we went in to have a quick preview
of Granada.
I had been before to a Euro-Toque conference but Sile hadn’t.
We went to the ominously named Paseo de Los Tristes to
have lunch of chilled Gazpacho and Manzanilla under
the shade of the Alhambra.

We then bought some Dolcis, sweet anis flavoured
biscuits, through a hatched turnstile from some
Carmelite nuns who lived nearby.
(Melt in the mouth they were too).

Had a wander into beautiful cool Moorish palace
which now houses the Museum of Archeology.
(It is amazing how an open courtyard with a fountain
is as cooling as air-conditioning.)

Had a look at Ferdinand and Isabella’s busts in the
over-ornate cathedral.
(It is easy to tell who wore the trousers by the faces alone)

Then back to Pilar’s in time to meet my old friend Michael,
now living in Manilva just down the road, in preparation for
our trip to the Alhambra the following day.

He proved that given the the magic of modern
telecommunications he can manage to do business
with America even in a campsite in the middle
of the Sierra Navadas.